Quincy Quarries is one of the last places where you’d think there’d be ice climbing. But it’s there, at least until it isn’t. And when it’s “in,” it’s actually pretty good. Here are my favorite routes as well as some beta.
Route Profile: Endeavour, White's Ledge
Tim and I recently climbed Endeavour (5.7, Grade III), a classic route up White’s Ledge in Bartlett, New Hampshire, as part of my 2019 Must-Climb Routes. Although unseasonably warm, we were rewarded with engaging climbing, an alpine-like setting, and an incredible view of the White Mountain National Forest as it transitions into its fall splendor. Since the route is south-facing and warm, there’s still ample time to jump on it this season.
Mick’s Picks: The Fist Red Back Glove
I bought a pair of Fist Gloves in July because I needed new gloves after an awesome trip on the Mid-Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route. The Fist Gloves are all the same style, just with different graphics and after some indecision, I ended up picking the Fist Red Back Glove because I have a thing for spiders. I’ve worn them just about every time I’ve been in my dual sport since then. After 500 miles, here’s what I think.
Route Profile: Lakeview, Cannon
Scott and I recently climbed Lakeview (5.6, Grade III, 7 pitches) on Cannon as part of my 2019 Must-Climb Routes. It was awesome, although at times a little intimidating. It was also, in keeping with Cannon’s reputation, a bit loose.
Gushing About Hiking in Yellowstone
Bug spray: check, sunscreen: check, Bear spray: check. It was while reading the directions on the back of the bear spray that I began to have second thoughts. Just how safe were we, bringing our five and eight year olds hiking through Yellowstone, let alone my late sixties in laws in tow, when each trail was emblazened with reminders of the dangers of Bear Country? It didn’t help that we had already seen a grizzly on the side of the road and had also met a black bear who strolled down a hill to the street and leisurely crossed the road in front of the car. The bears were active in Yellowstone and we were taking the family on a backwoods hike to see some of the park’s great sites.
Mid-Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route: Day 6
Our final day on the MABDR started in Pembroke, Virginia. Much like the day before, the riding began on windy dirt roads. While it was great to be riding again, all the back and forth left Jim and me begging for some fun, simple straightaways. We really wanted to let it rip!
Beginner's Guide to Personal Climbing Kit
So you finally have a weekend to join your friends on a trip to Rumney and you’re excited to climb outside for the first time. All that time learning to climb in the gym has prepared you for the physical aspects of the upcoming climbs, but not necessarily the personal gear you need to send the transition from gym to crag. Here’s my recommendation for a streamlined and highly versatile kit.
60 On The Circuit
The last couple weekends Mickey Spades and I have resumed our travels on the Bay Circuit Trail. One Saturday we rode a 40-mile lollipop loop, beginning in Hanson and then looping through Pembroke, Kingston, and Duxbury. The next Saturday we rode “Map 9” through Sherborn and Medfield, which offered 20 miles of almost continuous riding on single and double track—the best riding we’ve found on the BCT yet! Here’s the story of the two rides in eight pictures.
2019's Must-Climb Routes
I climbed so many outstanding pitches in 2018. With rock season now upon us, I’ve been thinking a lot about routes that I’d like to climb this year. So without further ado, here’s five new-to-me rock routes in the Northeast that are on my “to-do” list for 2019.
Book Report: To the Edges of the Earth
In 1909, three expeditions set off to capture the world’s four “poles.” An American team led by Robert Peary left hoping that on this attempt he’d finally be the first person to set foot on the North Pole. Another team meanwhile ventured south, intent on planting the English flag on the South Pole and, via a separate party, the Southern Magnetic Pole. Finally, an Italian expedition headed to the Himalaya, where it planned to reach the Earth’s so-called “Pole of Altitude,” by climbing K2, what was then believed to be the highest mountain in the world. Weaving the stories of these 1909 expeditions together into a cohesive narrative, Edward Larson’s To the Edges of the Earth is a must read for any lover of polar work.
Quincy Quarry Bouldering Project
When I started rock climbing, my gear consisted of a pair purple 5.10 Spires. Eager to climb, but lacking any other equipment, I bouldered. My first “real” problem: a 50 foot traverse from a small but solid stance in a cave on what I later learned was Quincy Quarry’s “N Wall.”
Surf Station: School Vacation
We’ve had a busy week at The Whites Room. Mickey lead off with a dual sport gear list for winter riding in Southern New England.
Surf Station: Mid-Winter 2019
Before the snow started dumping, Doug and Tim had a great time climbing Flume and Silver Cascades, doing some research for an upcoming goEast piece on moderate ice climbs in Crawford Notch. Their friend Nick joined them that day. Look for him in some of the pics in the article as well as on Tim’s Instagram (@Timjpeck).
Book Report: One Man’s Wilderness
The first 100 pages of One Man’s Wilderness: An Alaskan Odyssey always make me so happy. It’s about a man (Dick Proenneke), building a cabin from mostly natural materials, living his dream in the wilds of Alaska. It doesn’t get much better than that.
Pedaling With Mickey: A Day on the Bay Circuit Trail
Less than 15 minutes from Mickey’s house and we’re already lost. The directions made this intersection seem easy: exit Borderland State Park on the Rockland Street Trail, turn left onto “Rockland St. for 0.1 miles,” and then take a right onto “a woodland trail.” A Bay Circuit Trail marker, designating the turn from the road into the woods, was supposed to be right there. Unfortunately, it’s not.
Surf Station: Happy New Year
We’re psyched that Tim and Doug’s piece “1927” was featured in the Winter 2019 issue of Wild Northeast. Skiing the Carriage Road on New Hampshire’s Mt. Moosilauke is one of our favorite winter outings, and Tim and Doug’s piece weaves the history of skiing racing on the Carriage Road into a story of their ascent and descent of the mountain. If you haven’t seen it yet, be sure to grab a copy at your local gear shop. And if you’re not able to find a hard copy, you can get the piece by clicking on the link above or the whole magazine by signing up for a free digital subscription.
What’s Up With Tim?
Thanks for the cute picture of Tim and Nellie that you texted on Xmas Eve. It’s a fantastic shot of a man and his new best friend. But looking at the picture got me wondering—since when has Tim liked dogs? The last thing I remember is him threatening that poor lady at Lincoln Woods when her dog so much as barked at us. Now that he has two of his own, I often find myself, to paraphrase his favorite Twitter follow, wondering “whaz up with Tim?”
Our Favorite Gear 2018
Everybody on the TWR wrote about their favorite piece of gear for 2018. Here’s our choices.
Surf Station: Mid-December
Skiing is awesome. So is ice climbing. And between us, we’ve had some pretty good days out in the past couple of weeks. Most notable was a fantastic early-December day skiing on Mount Washington. The conditions were so good that even Mickey Spades brushed off the summer wax off his skis and joined us.
Red Rock Reflections, Part 2
I wrote the other day about what we climbed during a recent trip to Red Rock. With the climbing summarized, here are a few more post-trip reflections.